It’s really important not to spoil or ‘mess-up’ a garment by using the wrong interfacing. You know what I mean, you’re rushing to make a project and suddenly you realise you need some interfacing for the collar or facing. So you start to rummage, just to see what you might have hanging around in your stash or sewing box, and there you find it, a piece that will just fit and away you go – cut, fused, done! When you’re finished you know that the collar has come out too firm, too stiff, too hard, crackles a bit…
So let me suggest – keep a few different qualities on hand; fuse a test piece on a small square and see which one feels the nicest.
A good interfacing should enhance your project, not overpower it (unless of course you are making fabric boxes for your stash!). It should add stability or a slight ‘fullness’ to your project.
Interfacing is most commonly found in collars and cuffs; front edges on shirts and jackets; necklines and facings; or where you are going to make buttonholes.
Here are some of our favourites (all are from the Vlieseline / Vilene range – in our opinion the best quality interfacings available).
Vlieseline H180 – the softest and lightest weight interfacing. It is a dot coated fusible which means the over all finish remains softer.
Vlieseline H410 – this is a soft interfacing but also has vertical threads running down the piece which adds greater stability. Especially good on jacket fronts or fabrics that can distort easily such as satins or loosely woven fabrics.
Vlieseline Fusible Bias Tape – This 1 cm wide tape is flexible and has a stabilising stitch through the middle of the tape. Use it on curved edges such as necks and armholes which are areas that can often become stretched. We use this tape instead of stay-stitching on necks and armhole edges and often only use this tape if we are making a fully lined dress (i.e. no facings to fuse).